AMRITSAR: A Sikh pilgrim's progress is usually measured by the journeys he or she takes to visit gurudwaras of historical importance. In Amritsar District, the bus is the appropriate mode of transport for such moral and duty-bound excursions.

The day begins by invoking the name of the almighty, the Sri Harmandir Sahib, the most hallowed shrine of the Sikhs.

Here Sikhs from all over the world spend a few blissful moments and in prayer.

Satnam Singh, a driver of the Punjab Roadways, has a pleasant job of taking Harmandir Sahib pilgrims on a daylong journey to historical gurudwaras. The journey costs a mere Rs.2.

Lakhwinder Singh, the General Manager of Punjab Roadways in Amritsar, says the gurudwara excursion is not a profit-driven venture.

"We have laid down no economic parameters and have no desire to make this a profitable venture. It's a service of love for devotees who want to visit the historical gurudwaras with in Amritsar District," Singh claims.

With pilgrims chanting `Wahe Guru', the journey starts towards its first destination, the Gurudwara Kotha Sahib in village Valla.

A 15-minute journey and the gurudwara built in memory of the ninth Sikh Guru, Guru Teg Bahadur looms for all to see.

History tells us that while on his way to Amritsar, Guru Tegh Bahadur reached the village of Valla where people welcomed him wholeheartedly. Gratified by their hospitality the Guru exclaimed "Valla Guru ka Galla" (Valla is the bowl of Guru).

Pilgrims halt here for a few minutes to pay their respects to the Guru and then move towards the Gurudwara Baba Bakala.

Munching a spicy mixture of dried and fried roasted peas, the pilgrims enjoy the pleasant drive to Baba Bakala's shrine.

The shrine is associated with an important event in Sikh history. It may be recalled that before his death, Guru Harkishan whispered feebly `Baba Bakala', thereby meaning that his successor was to be found at Bakala village. On that day, the only Baba there was Baba Tegh Bahadur. However, a trader later discovered the genuine Guru.

A beautiful gurudwara stands at the spot where the Guru used to meditate in an underground cell.

The next destination is Khadur Sahib, the sacred village where Guru Angad promoted the message of God.

A 20 mile-long journey ends up at a gurudwara where weaving loom of a cloth weaver use to stand.

History records that Guru Amar Das stumbled into a weaver's pit, while carrying a pitcher of water on his head for his guru Sri Angad Dev.

In spite of his fall, he succeeded in saving the pitcher filled with water. The noise of the fall awakened the weaver who suspected a thief had come. When weaver's wife heard a voice uttering `Japji' she remarked that there was no thief but, poor and homeless Amar.

When the incident came to the notice of Guru Angad, he was pleased to see that Amar Das was not homeless and lowly and appointed him as his successor.

"Our purpose in visiting Amritsar was to visit the Golden Temple, Jallianwalan Bagh and the retreat ceremony at the Wagah joint check-post. But when we heard about the bus service by Punjab Roadways to the historical gurudwaras, we quickly amended our plans, and made a programme to pay obeisance at all gurudwaras," says Gajraj Singh, one of the pilgrims.

Traveling a few miles southeast of Amritsar, the bus reaches Goindwal, a small town where two historical gurudwaras, Chaubara Sahib, the birthplace of Guru Arjun Dev and Baoli Sahib, the first centre of Sikhism, have been constructed.

The third Guru, Sri Amar Das showed an alternative place of pilgrimage, to Haridwar and Benaras, where God alone was to be worshipped. The Guruji purchased land and constructed a `Baoli' or a well with steps descending to the water.

The baoli had eighty-four steps and the dip here is considered most holy. The guru decreed that whoever faithfully and ardently repeated `Japji' on every step; he would be released from the travails of wandering through eighty four lakh births and rebirths.

A lunch break follows at the famous community kitchen of Guru Amar Das, where each visitor is offered food free of cost. It is believed that Emperor Akbar also partook of a meal in the langar, before meeting the Guru.